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18 January 2016 - We're rolling across the flat, winter-whitened moonscape of North Dakota. Churchs Ferry. 7:56 a.m. Minus nine degrees. We boarded Amtrak's Empire Builder at 3:15 p.m. Sunday afternoon in Chicago after two days of art and architecture. Overnight, in a tight but comfortable roomette, we wested across the middle of the country, dark and stark. Temperatures outside, somewhere around Fargo, dipped to ...